Thursday, 13 June 2013

The Story Of Vicuna Fiber

By Freida McCall


Vicuna fiber, sometimes known as golden fleece, is the rarest and most expensive in the world. It is renowned for its many qualities, in particular its fineness: measuring approximately twelve microns (one micron equals one millionth of a meter), it is probably the very finest in the world, even finer than cashmere, which measures about seventeen microns. It is also light, incredibly soft and known for its fantastic insulating properties, being far warmer than wool to wear.

This material comes from the fleece of animals called Vicunas, which are related to the better known alpacas and llamas. These golden or cinnamon colored animals are striking to look at, with big eyes, long necks and slim legs. Their shoulders usually measure around one hundred centimeters and they weight just over one hundred pounds. On the chests, these creatures have a large white patch made up of longer hairs.

These animals are only found in South America, and are suited to high alpine areas like the Peruvian Andes, where the majority of them live. They have good eyesight and can cover a lot of ground quickly, in order to escape predators. Vicunas also have cloven padded hooves suited to the mountainous terrain and their two layered coat keeps them warm. The outer layer is long and soft, but the inner shorter and denser hairs are better able to trap heat.

Vicunas were regarded as a sacred animal in the time of the Incas. The Chaccu, a special ritual, was ordered by the king four yearly, in order to round up the herds of animals. People played instruments and waved flags as they formed a line encircling the Vicunas. They then sheared the creatures before releasing them back into the wild. It was imperative that no animal was harmed. Only Inca royalty was good enough to wear the clothes produced.

Hunters, discovering the value of these animals' pelts, targeted them, unfortunately. This led to the numbers of animals falling so far that conservation interventions were needed to prevent their extinction. These efforts, which were introduced in the nineteen sixties and seventies, were effective, and there are now over one hundred and fifty thousand Vicunas in Peruvian reserves. These animals have a protected status.

These days, Peruvians still hold Chaccus in order to round up and shear the animals. The creatures are not hurt in this process and there is plenty of legislation in place to protect them. It is illegal to export Vicunas, but their fleece is now allowed to be sold outside South America. However, there is a strict protocol to follow, with exporters needing to adhere to guidelines drawn up by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species.

Once animals have been sheared, people sort the fleece and remove the coarsest hairs. Then the hair is washed in lukewarm water and left to dry naturally. This process is usually done manually, in the traditional manner. The material is then ready for spinning and weaving. It is usually left in its natural brown colors rather than being dyed.

These rare animals do not produce a huge amount of material per head. The fleece of one animal may not even be enough to make a scarf for an adult, and over twenty five fleeces may be needed for a coat. This adds to the rarity of Vicuna fiber, and the cost. Clothes made from this material are exquisite but also expensive.




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